Mayan Ruins, Exquisite Haciendas and Inventive Architecture
This trip stays in the loveliest of accommodations, visits the famous Mayan ruins and has the added attraction of featuring some of the best examples of 16th century churches in Mexico. Since that history is not so well known, a short introduction may be helpful:
The development of ecclesiastical architecture in the New World was unique. The priests who were sent to convert the Natives were Erasmian Mendicant humanists, who believed that they had been given another chance by God to create a better world than they had in Europe. They worked out an architectural system that was a graphic representation of the belief system of the natives and used it to show how Christianity was the same or perhaps better, more music, great processions, powerful gods, etc. It was a daring and successful experiment. They had to literally build their faith in bricks and mortar and survive in the meantime.
The situation seems to have mandated the sequence of construction. First, Mendicant friars very wisely observed Native ritual and then proceeded to create a quadrangle, the four corners established, as well as the center.
This of course necessitated the legitimizing power of being located over the ancestral spiritual center of the Native community at the same time a crude table at first, would serve as an altar. Living quarters for the friars was next, which meant a cloister if it was a Monastery and "casa cural o curato" if it was a "visita" of a Monastery. Soon the altar at the atrio morphed into the open chapel, and along came the capillas posas in the corners of the court. To delimit the sacred from the profane space the atrio was enclosed by the atrio wall. At the center of this most sacred of space, the World Tree in the form of an elaborate Christian Cross was placed on a becoming pedestal.
A century or so later a proper church Nave would get built that would generally incorporate the open chapel, but in many instances the open chapel remained a separate structure. The nave in turn would in most cases have a common wall with the cloister and in the end, some two hundred years after the original friars arrival in the community, a sprawling, conventual's complex would have replaced the original ritual space of the Native ancestors.
This would become the prescribed and authorized sequence throughout the New World, and it became church policy. This established the Spanish implemented policy in conquered lands. Changes had to make accordingly, if in other areas different to what used to be Meso America, as was South America, New Mexico, Guam and the Philippines. The architectural results evident today, attest to these differences.
Day 1, Monday, Feb. 4
USA/Mérida, Mexico. We meet in Mérida. Upon arrival, we transfer to Hacienda San Jose Cholul. Just outside of Mérida. We will probably arrive late at night, 11 pm, when many of the flights from the US and Mexico City get in. IF people want to arrive a day early, which is a nice idea, we can get the Hacienda to extend the rate. Then they can enjoy the pool and wander around the place.
Day 2, Tuesday, Feb. 5
Hacienda San Jose Cholul, one of the Starwood properties redone by the banker and hacienda collector, Roberto Hernandez. Close to Mérida, this hacienda was featured on the cover of Travel and Leisure a few years ago.
8:30 am: Breakfast and depart for Dzbilchaltun. Here, standing in the midst of one of the oldest Mayan ruins, is an excellent ex ample of an open chapel.
Dzbilchaltun is just outside Mérida, it was inhabited continuously from 500 B.C. until the arrival of the Spaniards. At its height, Dzibilchaltún had more than 40,000 inhabitants. The site includes ruins of an open chapel, a graphic illustration of the Spanish building right on top of a Maya city.
Lunch at the famous Los Almendros, Yucatecan cuisine.
Afternoon in Mérida, founded by Francisco Montejo y Leon in 1542 on the ancient Mayan city of T'ho. The stones of the Maya served as the foundations of the civil and religious buildings of Mérida. Our tour of the city includes the Municipal Palace, the Casa de Montejo with its ornate facade, and a wealth of 16th-, 17th-, and 18th-century churches. The city's own palm-lined version of Paris' Champs Elysees is lined with imposing mansions built a century ago to reflect French styles and taste.
Overnight at Hacienda San Jose Cholul.
Day 3, Wednesday, Feb. 6
We leave for Chichen Itza early so that we miss the bus loads of tourists from Cancun who arrive about 11 am.
On the bus: Introductory lecture on the history of Mayan civilization and the Spanish of the Yucatán.
Highlights of Chichen include the iconic monumental Castillo, the Temple of the Plumed Serpent, known as Kukulcán; the Temple of a Thousand Columns; the Observatory; the Sacred Well of Sacrifice and the largest ball court in the Mayan world.
1:30 pm: after lunch at the Hacienda Chichen
3 pm: Drive past three of the early churches, Yaxcaba, Tabi and Sotuta.
The altarpiece at Tabi will remind you of New Mexican reredos. These are large churches in small villages.
Return for dinner at Hacienda San Jose Cholul.
Day 4, Thursday, Feb. 7
After breakfast we move from Hacienda San Jose Cholul (Izamal)/Hacienda Temozon. Today we visit Izamal, one of Yucatá's most beautiful colonial cities, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, on top of a huge pyramid, Spanish priests built a massive monastery and church. The rambling structure is a fascinating place with 75 magnificent arches surrounding a huge atrium.
The inclusion and definition of sacred space, the invention of "posa" chapels to mark the corners of the space that correspond to the Indian cosomology and the atrium cross marking the axsis mundi are all extremely clever adaptations of Indians cosmology.
Departing Izamal we go to Hacienda Yaxcopoil, great hacienda (photostop only), then continue to Hacienda Temozón in the Puuc zone. Like Katanchel, Temozón went from cattle ranch to sisal plantation and, eventually, abandonment. The beautifully restored property boasts a stunning plantation house, sumptuous grounds, and a grandiose swimming pool that reflects the hacienda's traditional red arcades indicating how many cattle they had (although like most cattle haciendas Temozon turned to hennequin during the boom.)
7 am: Restaurant opens. Breakfast at leisure.
8:30 am: Transfer to Izamal.
4:30 pm: Check-in at Hacienda Temozon
Day 5, Friday, Feb. 8
Hacienda Temozon (Uxmal and Kabah). Today our focus turns to the ruins of Uxmal and Kabah, fine examples of the ornate Puuc style of Mayan architecture. The exquisite site of Uxmal is best known for its Pyramid of the Magician. Following lunch here, we explore Kabah, where the Palace of Masks presents an ornate facade covered with repeating images of Chaac, the god of rain.
We will also see the great church of Santa Eleana that sits atop a hill near near Uxmal. This is a classic example of a colonial church. And last we will stop at Mani, to see their colonial church, great open chapel and huge atrium, where the famous Bishop Diego de Landa, burned all the Maya books.
The great church of Mani, is perhaps the most impressive ex ample of a unique new world architectural innovation, the open chapel. It was here that Bishop Landa burned the Maya books in a frenzy of Christianity. This church, like many others, was founded over a cenote. Mani has good examples of another New World adaptation, the espedana, used extensively in New Mexico.
7 am: Restaurant opens. Breakfast at leisure.
8:30 am: Depart for the Puuc Monuments.
6 pm: Return to Hacienda Temozon.
Dinner at leisure at the hacienda (B,L,D)
Day 6, Saturday, Feb. 9
7 am: Restaurant opens. Breakfast at leisure.
8:30 am: Transfer to Mérida, stopping at Sotuta de Peon to see a working henequen hacienda. Arrive in Mérida, check into Santa Lucia. The Hotel Casa Lucia is a small deluxe boutique hotel located in the historical center of Mérida. The colonial style Hotel has it's setting in two different neighboring homes built towards the end of the 19th century.
Located in the Santa Lucia neighborhood, the Hotel takes its name from the nearby church of same name. The Hotel building, which was remodeled recently, preserves all its historical architectural elements, while at the same time allowing for the necessary modern guest comforts.
Because of the Hotel's excellent location, guests have easy access to the historical center of Mérida. Considered one of most traditional cities in Mexico, Mérida continues to be a very important cultural and culinary center. Hotel Casa Lucia is only three blocks from several important tourist attractions of note: the Plaza Grande, the Cathedral, and the Museum of Contemporary Art. The surrounding area is also a commercial center for traditional antiques.
There is free time this afternoon to have lunch, shop and enjoy Mérida. Tonight is the farewell dinner. (B,D)
Day 7, Sunday, Feb. 10
Mérida/USA. We depart Mérida this morning for flights home. Your escorts will let you know what time we will transfer to the airport. It is always early.